Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Deep Forest Bouldering: Kids at the Boulders

I had the opportunity to take my kids to the boulders this past summer. Of coarse I want them to love climbing and so far they do. At this point though I think it is because there dad loves climbing which is great. Some times the trick is to find problems that they can do.
Holdless Slab at its finest.
Luckily for me there are lots of boulders with slabs around to climb.
Woods in the Northwest
The goal for this day was to get my daughter on some boulders and try some of my projects as well. I had a slab in mind with lots of little chicken heads on it in mind for my daughter so off we went to that.
My daughter in full onsite mode.
This problem has lots of chicken heads on it which makes the climbing supper fun and easy. It is about 20 feet high and full slab. A couple of days after this photo was taken I bought her some new climbing shoes.
Passing more boulders in the woods.
After she sent and had a second lap for fun we headed of to a different part of the boulders for daddy to try a project for a little while.
My little one heading by the boulders.
This project I have been trying for some time now. I get on it when the conditions are good and each time I manage a new move and get a little further.
Notre Dame V7 our harder.
My high point is one move past this one. I can now get to it most times. All holds on this one are terrible slopers with big throws between them. I am sure of how it is going to end but I have not managed the move yet. Supper excited about this one. After a few goes it was time for a transition problem then on to the next project.
British VB

Sweet Pocket!
I love the pocket on British. Great texture and moves make it a supper fun one for sure. With my transition problem done I moved on to the next project. On this next one I had come close before but not figure the upper part of the problem out on the last session. This time was different as I had an idea of how it would go so all I had to do was put it together.
Excalibur V4 FA

Excalibur V4 crux move.
Excalibur V4 Final move to small pocket.






































Excalibur starts on a small pinch and an undercling. Then progresses through some small high side pulls to set up a high feet move to a right undercling sidepull. This brings us to the crux which is setting your feet high and turning in to a small pocket so that you can reach to the last pocket and rock over to the top of the boulder. Turned out to be a great boulder problem for sure with a bit of a commitment factor.
Staring lunch and looking at what I just sent.
I love the woods and climbing so much I find I am happiest in the forest climbing when the to can come together.
My kids sharing lunch with me.
After lunch there was just enough time left to hit some classics.
Mini Cooper V3
Steep, punchy, crimpy Mini Cooper is always fun as well as it opposite Centurion V2.
Centurion V2
22 feet high with a solid start leads to very committed finish way off the deck. This problem is one of the greats for sure. Well it has been a long day at the boulders once again and now we must go home. Until next time keep sending.

Monday, December 7, 2015

Deep Forested Bouldering: Brothers and Boulders

Over my 20 years as a climber I have come to enjoy the social aspect of climbing and meeting mew climbers at the crags around the world. This is a big part of the climbing experience I think. Because of this the last 5 years have been full of solitude as I spend most of my time developing new boulders and routes. I love the process of developing something new but it comes at the cost of social interaction as there are not a large amount of climbers looking forward to lots of hard work all day for few our no accents until later. This makes it even better for me when I get the chance to bring friends our family out with me climbing and introduce them to some new climbs.
Summer in the woods.
My brother has been climbing for years a little hear and a little there so he is not new to the sport. He has not done any taller bouldering though so this was going to be a new experience for him in some ways.
My brother on Tower Of Babel V0
Our day started on some shorter problems as warm ups.
Slopers are the norm on these boulders.
My brother getting into the flow.
Soper pinch grip.
Setting up for the topout.
After the warm ups we hit the tall ones and I started to clean a new line.
Finalizing some cleaning on the base of the boulder.
Heading up Tower of Babel for some fun.
Tower of Babel
My brother setting up for the topout. He did get a little tense for a moment.
But he committed and sent.
A relaxing moment on the top looking at haw far he had climbed.
Then it was time for some zen moments.
Take of the shoes first.
Achieve the pose
It was now time for me to finish some final cleaning and go for the send on the new problem.
Brushing moss is part of the deep forest experience.
Setting of on the FA flash of Seventh Wonder V1
Seventh Wonder V1 FA
Seventh Wonder V1 FA

Seventh Wonder V1 FA
Seventh Wonder V1 FA  the cool crux move. So awesome.

Seventh Wonder V1 FA
Seventh Wonder V1 FA

So happy at the quality of the line I sent it 3 more times for the fun of it.
After his success on the tall line he wanted to try a classic around the corner. He did not send but had a lot of fun and wants to come back for the send.
Supper fun V1 I took a lap to show my bro the problem.

My brother styling the corner
Sticking the first part of the crux.
All that was left for him was to move his left foot out wide and stand up to a jug. Then it is jugs to the anchor. This line is a 5 star for sure.
Beautiful tall firs of the Pacific Northwest.
As a finish to the day we went to a different boulder so my brother could try something short and a little harder just to see what its like.
My brother on LP V2
Eye on the prize but wishing for better holds.
Hear is how great those holds are.
LP is a friction and balance problem so for all real porpoises there are no holds.
Setting up for the crux.
Giving it his all.
He did not make it this day but will next time for sure. I think he was too tired from all the rest of the days bouldering but he sure did give it all he had.
I hoped on and gave it a send.
Showing the proper way and driving everything into the high smear.
When all was said and done we had a great day out. I sent 2 new FA's and my brother did some high balls and came one move from doing a personal best. So glad I got some social time at the boulders on this trip but part of my mind was on finding and cleaning the next new adventure. Thanks for ready this post and keep sending.