Sunday, November 15, 2015

Alpenglow Bouldering.

Alpenglow bouldering; I first laid eye's on the area while driving back from a different area. As it turns out in 2000 you could see the boulders from the main gravel road but only while travailing south on the road and only in a very small spot.
The dot is the view point and the boulders are in the center of the image.  
On that particular day we drove back home but I marked the spot in my head for the future. My next trip out I was bashing through the woods looking for what is now the Superhero boulders and found a little boulder instead.
X Boulder
As it turns out the view from these boulders over to the Alpenglow Boulders was great and at the end of the day I had to get up there and check them out. What I found with my friend on that first trip was awesome! Incredible rock and nice size boulders. There was not a lot of them but they were great and the view of the sun setting on Mt Hood was incredible.
Dave starting up what would become a V4 and me on a future V7
The first few trips we just bashed through the woods up the steep slope but then we trimmed the dead branches off the underbrush and created a trail which was improved upon with the help of three other people over a few years.
The trail from the forest service road to the boulders as recorded by GPS.
This trail starts with some natural stairs up on tree roots and then makes its way through the under canopy of fir trees all the way to the boulders. It is very obvious because of the missing dead branches trimmed years ago by me and my friends. At the boulders you will notice that it is not a large area but the boulders are good size and the rock is supper solid.
Boulders highlighted are the main ones.
At this site cleaning has not been necessary for sending. Because of this the only tools we use are a tooth brush and crash pads. The ground in the spring and summer has lots of wild flowers and the views of the gorge are spectacular so we also chose to keep it as pristine as possible to enjoy the alpine style environment. No landings we groomed because they did not need to be. Some are not smooth but spotters and pads can fix them.
View looking east.

View looking south.
Some of the pictures in this post are scans of slides from about 15 years ago and some are digital taken all during that time. Enjoy the pics.
Start of an overhung V6 traverse.

Heading into the crux finish.
Climbing a tall unnamed V1
Five start V0 called Alpenglow
Supper hard arete. Lots of power on this one.
My friend climbing a great arete.

Working the Sharks Fin V5

Sending the awesome V6 traverse about 6 years ago.
Alpenglow V0
Working a great V4 sent by a friend of mine in 2000
The Sharks Fin is a classic and hear are some pictures of the FA done years ago by one of my good friends.
Sticking the side pull for the FA
My Send soon after.
Lots of dead points on this one.
Throw for the finish.

The Sharks Fin with Mt Hood in the background.
In the last two seasons there has been others that have made there way up to this area after I mentioned were it was when at an area nearby. These fine folks have done some new problems and repeated a lot of what I and my friends did a few years back. I am very glad to see others climbing hear! That is the point of developing boulders. Writing this post is about giving some history to the area on how things started. I will end this one for now with a map to the area. In the future as I have the time I will post more detailed information on problems and grades. I recommend checking it out and enjoying it for what it is.
The road starts at beacon rock. When the pavement ends just keep straight.
Click on the maps to make them bigger. Keep climbing and enjoy the Alpenglow Boulders.

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Deep Forested Bouldering; The Family that Climbs Together

Waiting for this day to come has seamed like forever. It's like the coolest thing in your life you can not wait to share with your kids but when that thing is climbing you need to wait for them to be ready. Well my daughter is six and asking all the time when she can go climbing with daddy. So with great excitement off to the boulders we went. She loves the forest so a trip into it for climbing and playing in the woods wast the best option she could think of.
Grace starting up Stairway to Heaven VB
She did awesome on her first problem and had to climb it about 5 times because it was so much fun. I have to say that things seam much scarier when your kid is climbing.
Looking at her feet like a champ.
Almost there!
On top and loving it!
On this day as well daddy had a project that he wanted to send as well. On to the next boulder to see if a send was in store for daddy as well.
Starting up Damascus Steel V3
Cleaning, sweeping, and landing management went quickly and I started into the unknown. At 24ft high I was making sure to put myself in the zone for maximum concentration. Before this I had never been on this line before did not want to take the plunge from the top.
Hand on the jug.
With the cool opening moves sent and my hands on the jug just below the summit I started to think about the send. I new to just stay focus on the climbing but had to step up my game for what came off the jug.
Setting up for the final moves.
Ok lets do this.
To my surprise I found a small left hand hold was all that was there for the exit moves and a big high step then mantel would be the finish. I must say that some sweating was involved looking a the big drop to the ground but pushing it back and rocking over the top followed and the send went down. Motivation is great and having a daughter cheering for you in the background helps as well.
Happy at the boulders.
Glad to have spent this day with my daughter climbing I bought her her first pair of rock shoes a couple weeks later.